How to Grade a Sewing Pattern into Multiple Sizes
A practical guide on how to grade a sewing pattern into multiple sizes: grade rules, cut-and-spread vs shifting, checking seams, and testing a full size run.
Learn how to read a clothing size chart: body vs garment measurements, ease, choosing between sizes and turning a chart into a pattern that fits you.
A size chart looks simple: a row of sizes and a column of numbers. Yet many fit problems start with misreading one. Whether you are buying clothes online, choosing a sewing pattern size or turning a seller's chart into a pattern, knowing how to read a clothing size chart properly saves fabric, time and frustration.
Every size chart answers one question: which measurements belong to which size? The tricky part is what kind of measurement each number is. There are two types, and charts do not always say which they use.
A clue is the size of the numbers. If the "bust" for a medium is noticeably larger than a typical body bust for that size, you are probably looking at garment measurements. Many charts on shopping sites mix both, for example a body bust and a garment length.
Check whether the chart is in centimetres or inches. Some charts list both; some quietly switch units between columns.
Between-size results are normal. Very few bodies match a single row of a standard chart. Sewists have an advantage here: you can grade between sizes on the pattern, for example a medium at the bust flowing into a large at the hip. Shoppers have to pick the size that fits the most important area and alter the rest.
Ease is the difference between your body and the garment. Wearing ease lets you breathe, sit and move. Design ease creates the style: a relaxed kameez has much more than a fitted top.
When you read a garment-measurement chart, subtract your body measurement from the garment measurement to see how much ease you will get. A few centimetres at the bust means a close fit; a much larger difference means a loose, flowing fit. This simple check tells you far more than the size label alone.
Standard size runs such as XS to XXXL are built on average proportions. They are efficient for brands and shops because one set of patterns covers most customers. Made-to-measure patterns start from one person's own body measurements instead, which removes most of the guessing.
On Digital Creation, each design can be generated in sizes XS through XXXL or from your own measurements, such as bust, waist, hip, shoulder, lengths and sleeve. You enter body measurements and the pattern adds the ease. Each download also includes a size guide PDF with a fabric table for every size.
If you have found a garment online and want to sew it, its size chart is valuable data. Combined with the product photo it describes both the shape and the proportions. In the photo to pattern tool you can upload the chart as a picture or enter it by hand, then check every number in a table before downloading patterns for every size. Read the column headings carefully at this stage so body and garment measurements are not confused.
There is no single universal standard. Each brand builds its chart from its own target customer and fit, so a medium in one shop can be a large in another. Always compare numbers, not labels.
The measurements. Labels are only names; the numbers tell you how the garment will fit.
Want a pattern that follows your numbers instead of a label? Enter your measurements in the pattern builder and preview your design before you download.