Sewing Pattern Markings: Grainline, Notches, Seam Allowance

A sewing pattern is full of lines, triangles and arrows, and each one is an instruction. Once you understand these markings, cutting and sewing become much faster and far more accurate. This beginner's guide explains the most common sewing pattern markings, including grainlines, notches, seam allowance, cutting and stitching lines, fold lines and labels.

Cutting line and stitching line

The two most important lines on any pattern piece are the cutting line and the stitching line.

• Cutting line: the outer edge of the pattern piece. You cut the fabric along this line.
• Stitching line (seam line): the line you actually sew along. It sits inside the cutting line.

On Digital Creation patterns, the solid line is the cutting line and the dashed line is the stitching line. Some patterns from other sources show only the cutting line and state the seam allowance in the instructions, so always check the legend.

Seam allowance and hem allowance

The seam allowance is the distance between the cutting line and the stitching line. It gives you fabric to sew the seam and to finish the edges.

• Common seam allowances are 0.6 cm (1/4 in), 1 cm (3/8 in) and 1.5 cm (5/8 in).
• Smaller allowances suit curves such as necklines and armholes; larger ones give room for fitting adjustments.
• The hem allowance is the extra length folded up at the bottom of a garment or sleeve, usually larger than the seam allowance.

When you build a pattern with Digital Creation you can choose a seam allowance of 0.6 cm, 1 cm, 1.5 cm or none, and a hem allowance of 2, 3 or 4 cm. Choosing "none" is useful if you prefer to trace stitching lines and add your own allowance.

Grainline

The grainline is a long straight line with arrows at one or both ends. It tells you how to place the pattern piece on the fabric.

1. Lay your fabric flat with the selvedges (the finished edges) parallel to each other.
2. Place the pattern piece and measure from one end of the grainline to the selvedge.
3. Measure from the other end and adjust until both distances are equal.
4. Pin or weight the piece in place and cut.

The grainline should run parallel to the selvedge. If a piece is placed off-grain, the garment can twist, the side seams can swing toward the front, and the hems may hang unevenly.

Fold line

A fold line, often marked with "place on fold" and bracket-shaped arrows, means the edge of the pattern piece goes exactly on the folded edge of the fabric. You do not cut along the fold; when you open the fabric you get one symmetrical piece twice the width of the paper pattern. Front and back bodices and skirts are commonly cut this way.

Notches

Notches are small triangles or short lines on the cutting line. They show which edges join together and help you line up pieces correctly.

• Matching notches on two pieces must meet when you pin the seam.
• A single notch often marks the front of a sleeve and a double notch the back, so you do not insert a sleeve the wrong way round.
• You can cut notches outward as small triangles or snip a tiny cut into the seam allowance; never snip deeper than the seam allowance.

Transfer every notch before you remove the paper pattern. It is very hard to find them again later.

Other common symbols

• Dots and circles: mark points such as the end of a slit, a pocket position or the top of the sleeve.
• Darts: shown as wedge shapes with dashed legs that meet at a point; sew from the wide end to the point.
• Lengthen/shorten lines: a pair of parallel lines where you can add or remove length without distorting the shape.
• Labels: each piece shows its name, size and how many to cut, for example "Cut 2" or "Cut 1 on fold".

For a kameez-style tunic, look for the marks showing where the side slits begin. For a pull-on pant, look for the waistband fold or casing line for the elastic or drawstring.

Putting it into practice

Before you cut, read through every piece once:

1. Check the test square on the printed pattern so the scale is correct.
2. Find the grainline and fold line on each piece.
3. Note how many of each piece to cut.
4. Transfer notches, dots and darts with chalk or a fabric pen.

Digital Creation patterns mark grainlines and notches on every piece, and the DXF files keep cut, seam, fold, grain, notch and text information on separate layers for anyone working in CAD. If you need help with the printing side, see our guide to printing sewing patterns at actual size. For a list of tools that make marking easier, read essential sewing tools for beginners.

Frequently asked questions

Do I sew on the cutting line or the dashed line?

Sew on the stitching line. On Digital Creation patterns that is the dashed line.

What happens if I ignore the grainline?

The garment may twist, hang unevenly or stretch out of shape over time, especially with soft fabrics.

Ready to practise reading a real pattern? Preview a beginner-friendly design such as the Breeze Pant in the pattern builder for free, and see the Pricing page for download plans.